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New Enterprise E


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#1161 malloc64

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 11:35 PM

QUOTE (Captain Riddick @ Mar 28 2013, 12:41 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Great photos, Riddick! The top one came in handy as a guide as I colored in the windows on my E. Thanks.

Finally, I also noticed while checking between your photo and my E that in the photo it seems that you didn't color in the windows in the indented section just behind the registry numbers and just before the speaker slits. Thought you might like to know! smile.gif

Here's my E for comparison.



Cheers!

#1162 Alex

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Posted 03 April 2013 - 01:50 AM

QUOTE (Destructor!!! @ Apr 2 2013, 06:48 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Masking tape - cut sections of it to shape over the parts you don't want sprayed. Use the tape's edge for straight lines.
Destructor, under normal circumstances masking tape would indeed be a no

#1163 Jay K

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Posted 03 April 2013 - 01:55 AM

Seeing all these windows painted in, I can't tell you how tempting it is to just go ahead and do it - but I'm going to wait for this light-blue pen to arrive, just in case it looks as nice as I think it will. It's been such a long time, though! sad.gif

Great pictures by the way, guys. smile.gif

EDIT: Just a thought as well, but has anyone tried to add a bit of detail to the deflector dish? I'm going to try and colour-in the 'ring' on mine, and if the ink sticks and dries, I'll probably go for the 'slits' as well, experimenting on the old one first of course.

#1164 malloc64

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Posted 03 April 2013 - 04:24 PM

Random collection of my Enterprise E including before/after window inking pics.
The inking definitely makes a subtle but powerful difference in the look of the ship. It definitely looks more "balanced."
I'm not even a fan of the E. I literally bought it off of the enthusiasm of you guys on this board. Now that I have it, however, I'm loving it. It's definitely a high point for DST.

Before inking


After inking


Before inking (part of the saucer is already inked)


After inking


Topside


Underside


#1165 malloc64

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Posted 03 April 2013 - 04:35 PM

QUOTE (Jay K @ Apr 3 2013, 02:55 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
EDIT: Just a thought as well, but has anyone tried to add a bit of detail to the deflector dish? I'm going to try and colour-in the 'ring' on mine, and if the ink sticks and dries, I'll probably go for the 'slits' as well, experimenting on the old one first of course.

I tried lightly inking the deflector but it never looked right so I cleaned it off.

However, inspired by your suggestion I carefully inked the impulse engines. I think they came out looking great. The "ridge" details really pop now.




I used a black Sakura Pigma Micron 005 (.20mm tip) to ink the windows and the impulse engines. The cheapest place to buy them that I know of is Dick Blick. They have the whole line of Pigma Microns for $2.24. Occasionally they have discounts. (I am in no way affiliated with them).


#1166 ShipNerd

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Posted 04 April 2013 - 12:29 AM

I just received my second DST E, the first I plan on attempting to do the window work shown in the previous post. It looks fantastic.

But before that I had to attempt to get the only thing that bothered me about the 2013 Ent E from DST. Shown Below.


I was not familiar with the Mineral Springs solution to remove any sort of trademark writing or scuffs. What I did know from selling toys was a white eraser can take some scuffs off. I decided to give it a try with an assortment of weapons. Note I did not want to endorse a product brand.


The one thing I remembered from work was that if you were going to erase a scuff on a toy, it took time. Removing a trademark, I wasn't sure it would work. But as I CAREFULLY held the toy, and applied various degrees of pressure ..CAREFULLY
over time the trademark began to fade. The eraser does not chew into plastic, it essentially rubs the unwanted ink onto the eraser. And if you remember using an eraser in school you get eraser crumbs all over the place. This took time so i just watched/listened to a hockey game as I
CAREFULLY removed the ink. I DID NOT WANT TO LOOSE ANY AZTECA near the trademarks. After a while the results were positive.


Frankly I am not certain how long It took to complete the "erasing" of the trademarks on the Nacelles. Below you can see the Copyrighted E, and the ...well...erased copyright E. Sorry DST.


Here is another view. I cannot emphasize how careful one must be not to take out some of the nearby AZTECA.


I thought before I posted any RADICAL but SIMPLE method to get Rid of the Copyright's on the Nacelle's of the DST E, I should cycle through the Lights and sounds. Sure enough everything worked.


Q`apla!

But this E took some Shipment scarring. Minor. Heck it will be my Battle Damaged "E."


Time to get the Gundam Pen ready to use. If anyone tries this trick with an eraser to remove the Copyrights on the DST E one must be Patient and have a variety of sizes of WHITE erasers to use. It is also messy. You will have eraser all over you after a while.
Just another clean up job.

ShipNerd


#1167 Jay K

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Posted 04 April 2013 - 12:34 AM

Malloc, that didn't even occur to me about the impulse engines, WOW does that look nice. biggrin.gif

ShipNerd, that's a cracking job man, and like you say, gundam pen will fix that scuff in no time.

#1168 Destructor!!!

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Posted 04 April 2013 - 03:56 AM

I am drowning in a sea of gorgeous pictures!

And meanwhile, my inbox is FPI-free...

What the hell is going on?!

Am I the only person on the forum still waiting for the rest of my ships!? (I have my BOP)

EDIT:

*Checks mail*

Oh, they must have heard me. My Enterprise-E is ready to ship!

#1169 Jay K

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Posted 04 April 2013 - 07:07 AM

Yep, those Impulse Engines look immediately better:


...but I reckon it'll need a couple more coats.


Thanks for highlighting this, Malloc. smile.gif

#1170 malloc64

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Posted 04 April 2013 - 04:01 PM

I know a few people have taken apart their Es for light blocking purposes. Can someone write out a guide on how to take apart the E?

I can see some at least 6 obvious screw cover panels on the bottom of the saucer, but I'm thinking of it'd be nice to get some tips on things to avoid, lessons learned, and things of that nature. After opening the TWOK 1701 I'm confident I could take a second one apart with much more ease and confidence knowing what I learned from my first attempt. I'm sure those of you who've opened the E have similar tips or techniques to share.

The light bleed isn't so noticeable in full sunlight, but in a dark or dimly lit room, the light bleed is pretty bad. It's not deal-breaking like on the TWOK 1701 but it's something I'd like to fix since I can.



#1171 ShipNerd

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Posted 04 April 2013 - 06:54 PM

QUOTE (malloc64 @ Apr 4 2013, 05:01 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I know a few people have taken apart their Es for light blocking purposes. Can someone write out a guide on how to take apart the E?

I can see some at least 6 obvious screw cover panels on the bottom of the saucer, but I'm thinking of it'd be nice to get some tips on things to avoid, lessons learned, and things of that nature. After opening the TWOK 1701 I'm confident I could take a second one apart with much more ease and confidence knowing what I learned from my first attempt. I'm sure those of you who've opened the E have similar tips or techniques to share.

The light bleed isn't so noticeable in full sunlight, but in a dark or dimly lit room, the light bleed is pretty bad. It's not deal-breaking like on the TWOK 1701 but it's something I'd like to fix since I can.


I do realize there is a line between toy and model.

A Toy maker probably would not mess with Light Blocking.

A Model company would point out the need for it. And if you were a good Model Builder you would do it on your own.

DST Toys are like Toy/Model Hybrids. They are not meant for childern. They are for adults. (I sense some jokes coming)

I really would like DST to try to improve the Light Blocking.

But I know that would up the cost, something brought up earlier in another thread.

I just love the light up Nacelles on the E. Yeah They bleed underneath..still a nice toy.

And if you have skill with breaking through glue and painting some sort of interior work..you can fix it on your own.

I would suspect if DST made an effort on Light Blocking, a 50% increase in price would be needed to offset the additional work for the interior painting of parts.

Just as long as the nacelles did were not green! (the were not)

ShipNerd

#1172 Alex

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Posted 06 April 2013 - 08:08 PM

QUOTE (malloc64 @ Apr 4 2013, 05:01 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I know a few people have taken apart their Es for light blocking purposes. Can someone write out a guide on how to take apart the E?
I'm actually going to be making a "backwards" video guide at some point showing the re

#1173 malloc64

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Posted 07 April 2013 - 05:11 AM

QUOTE (Alex @ Apr 6 2013, 09:08 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I'm actually going to be making a "backwards" video guide at some point showing the re

#1174 malloc64

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Posted 07 April 2013 - 05:11 AM
















#1175 malloc64

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Posted 07 April 2013 - 05:11 AM











#1176 Destructor!!!

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Posted 07 April 2013 - 08:41 AM

Malloc, you are amazing. Thank you!

#1177 ShipNerd

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Posted 07 April 2013 - 10:24 AM

Malloc, you have some serious talents..and guts!

What you are showing with the Light Blocking is what I wish DST would invest in..Paint addittional parts etc..

Yeah I know the price would go up.

But I am willing to pay.

ShipNerd


#1178 Kyp Durron

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Posted 07 April 2013 - 03:12 PM

I will paypal $75-$100 to anyone who can take apart my ship (And not cosmetically damage it) and block ALL the light bleed, and make it so that it has constant lights on with the button. I don't care about the sounds.



-Kyp

#1179 Jay K

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Posted 07 April 2013 - 11:16 PM

Amazing dude, just amazing. I have a screw-cover on the bottom of my port-nacelle that isn't stuck down properly (juts out a bit, big gap), so I'll definitely be breaking it off and sticking it down again myself now thanks to this.

Seriously, much appreciated. smile.gif

#1180 malloc64

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 07:42 AM

You know, I just got a bunch of these HD 1701s. They have an "always on" mode. I wonder if I can cannibalize the electronics from an HD and wire them into the E. Sure it will have Kirk's voice, but I don't really care about the voice as much as having an always on feature.

Hmmm I wonder if that'll work?

EDIT: Actually, a much simpler solution is to simply wire the bulbs into the "Play/Demo" switch and make that an on/off switch.




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