DST's TOS Tricorders!
#41
Posted 26 June 2009 - 11:00 PM
#42
Posted 27 June 2009 - 09:36 PM
Thank you FHC, but as long as Rick is there for us I
#43
Posted 28 June 2009 - 09:00 AM
#44
Posted 28 June 2009 - 03:15 PM
Chuck said that TRU Will not be carrying the D in a Q&A a few ones back.
#45
Posted 28 June 2009 - 04:29 PM
#46
Posted 29 June 2009 - 12:49 AM
The one on the right, http://i.toynewsi.co...ic=IMG_0436.jpg
#47
Posted 29 June 2009 - 01:57 AM
#48
Posted 29 June 2009 - 03:40 AM
#49
Posted 29 June 2009 - 07:41 AM
I don't believe the geo tricorder is officially scrapped as yet. Trekmovie.com, during their recent review of the med tric, gave a tease that it was still in the works. As far as voice phrases, the initial plan (as of Toy Fair) was to feature the voice of Majel Barrett-Roddenberry as the Enterprise computer. Cool.
#50
Posted 29 June 2009 - 08:22 PM
#51
Posted 30 June 2009 - 04:31 PM
#52
Posted 30 June 2009 - 04:45 PM
#53
Posted 30 June 2009 - 05:18 PM
It was $39.99 at the TRU's where I saw 'em.
#54
Posted 30 June 2009 - 05:33 PM
1st thing I've noticed is that when (if!) you pop the electronics out of the cover, the graphics is actually really well done. The visual can be greatly improved by properly aligning the LEDs in the mechanism. There are quite a few surface mount components, and I'm sure that the tolerance on them is what makes the voice sound higher.... the question is how to fix it??!
#55
Posted 30 June 2009 - 07:27 PM
Here is a couple shots of the one I modified, and the original. It's tough to get good lighted shots w/o a tripod, so I apologize for the picts, but I think you can see the difference.
Before
After
#56
Posted 30 June 2009 - 07:59 PM
#57
Posted 30 June 2009 - 08:00 PM
#58
Posted 01 July 2009 - 02:32 AM
Yeah, Let me get some more "How to" Picts together and I surely will!
#59
Posted 01 July 2009 - 09:47 AM
#60
Posted 01 July 2009 - 06:26 PM
First you need to remove the side panels. This is easily done using the slots on either side. You can see it in this shot. You can use a screwdriver, but I found I was able to get my finger nail in it and it would pop right off.
Remove both sides and pop the straps off. Set to the Side. Now your Tricorder should look as follows:
Right Side:
Left Side:
You will need to remove the hood pivot screw on the upper top of the right side.
The left side has grommet strain relief that needs to be pried out with a screw driver or knife. Depending on how much glue DST used on yours, you may have to break the collar of the grommet off. If your using a knife be careful not to cut the wires!
If you can pry it out it will look as follows:
Now you should be able to remove the hood by pulling the two side slightly apart and popping the hood out of from the right side first and then the left side (the side with the grommet). You may need to gather some of the wire up so you can pull it loose. If your want to disassemble the back, you need to remove the 6 silver screws on the left and right sides (3 ea side), which will make the whole assembly a bit more flexible, but shouldn't be necessary.
Now you need to pry the entire front panel of the Hood off along with the electronics. I simply inserted a screwdriver in the bottom and pried up the bottom. The pegs seemed to snap free and came out, but it looked really scary as the silver painted bit was bending in an almost 90 degree angle. I slowly worked it until the entire panel broke loose and I do mean broke! The pegs on the top were glued well and I ended up snapping them, but it didn't seem to matter really.
So here's what it ends up looking like when pried open...
Now there are two screws on the PCB that need to be removed (I already removed one in the shot above). Removing these will allow you to slide out the plastic light diffuser, the graphic, and front screen cover. The light diffuser is covered in foil on the back and has two "U" slots which the LED's should seat into.
Also the the Graphic is on a piece of plastic that also has some cuts in it to seat the LEDS properly.
So here's what I think the Issues are: 1) the LEDs aren't seated correctly in the light diffuser, and 2) the LED's are actually too bright when seated in the Graphic LED cut slot.
1st I (Gently!) pulled the two LED's forward and up
Then I used some tape to "add" a bit of diffusion of my own to the graphic LED slots... I put about 4 layers of the tape there to help dim and diffuse the LEDs right at the point where they are seated. The tape is still recessed slightly, and you should be able to see it in this shot.
Finally I re-assemble the parts. Now that the LED's have been moved they should stick up a bit and you'll have to work it a bit to get the Diffuser back on, but now the two LEDS's should be tight up against it where before they had a slight gap.
At this point I activated the LED's to see how bright they are using the switch in the side.
I then adjusted the LEDS down until then looked good without really bleeding through at the point where they seat into the graphic.
When your happy screw the PCB back down, and pop it back into the Hood. If your not going to take it apart again, I'd suggest re-gluing it.
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